BARCELONA TOURIST BOARD OFFICE GOTHIC QUARTER GUIDED WALKING TOUR

It is easy to get lost in Barcelona's Gothic Quarter. Along the labyrinth of narrow streets in the Barri Gòtic, bars, restaurants, street musicians and dance clubs co-exist with medieval buildings, wrought iron lamps and ornate doors.

We time-traveled back to medieval and Roman Barcelona on a two-hour walking tour of the Gothic Quarter that began at the Turisme de Barcelona tourist board office, located at Plaza Sant Jaume. Without our excellent guide, we would have missed the significance of the Gothic Quarter's attractions, as well as several surprises along the way.

Among them were the picturesque Flamboyant-style bridge over the narrow Carrer del Bisbe and the Plaça (Plaza) Sant Jaume, which was the center of the Roman forum 2,000 years ago. On the north side, the 15th-century Palau de la Generalitat is the seat of the Catalan government.

Festival of St. George

As church bells resounded, our guide explained that Catalonia has its own language (not a dialect of Spanish). The Catalan government controls hospitals and tourism, but not taxes. In an October 2017 referendum, Catalonians voted for independence from Spain.

A statue of St. George on horseback, slaying a dragon, crowns the entrance door to the Palau de la Generalitat. "St. George (San Jordi) is the patron saint of Catalonia," said our guide.

"According to tradition, when St. George killed the dragon, its blood became red roses. On April 23, St. George's Day, men buy red roses for their girlfriends, wives and mothers."

Roman temple

Our next stop was a big surprise. Hidden below street level, at the corner of Carrer del Paradis, is the Temple of Augustus from the Roman city of Barcino (the Latin name for Barcelona).

We examined photos on the wall as our guide explained that a Roman wall enclosed Barcelona for 1,000 years. The city, located on the Mediterranean Sea, was a trading center for items such as fish sauce, fermented with salt. "The Romans liked it so much that they paid a lot of money to buy it," he said.

Three complete temple columns towered above us, as well as a fourth column, made from pieces of columns brought to the Temple d'August. The building currently houses the Catalan Hikers' Association.

Barcelona Cathedral

The construction of Barcelona Cathedral (also called Catedral de la Seu) began at the end of the 13th century, but it wasn't completed until six centuries later. Its elaborate neo-Gothic façade was added in 1892 for the Universal Exhibition.

The building is also known as the Cathedral of St. Eulàlia, the co-patron saint of Barcelona, along with Our Lady of Mercy. Women must cover their shoulders and knees to enter the cathedral and men must remove their hats.

Why are 13 geese inside the cathedral?

Inside the cathedral cloister we discovered the Fountain of St. George. "You can refill your water bottles here because the water is potable," explained our guide.

Thirteen white geese swim, cackle and waddle around a pool and another small fountain in the cloister. Why 13 geese?

"St. Eulàlia was 13 years old when she was martyred during Christian persecutions in 304 AD," said our guide. "She was a farmer who looked after geese. Now the geese look after her."

Placa Sant Felip Neri

The façade of the church in Plaça (Plaza) Sant Felip Neri bears shrapnel pock marks from the 1938 Spanish Civil War bombings. The picturesque square was also a film location for many movies, including Perfume: The Story of a Murderer starring Dustin Hoffman.

The mood during our visit was much more joyful. Laughter and cheers resounded off the walls as students from Ecola Sant Felip Neri bounced a volleyball off a large, round, multicolored fabric.

Royal Palace complex

Our Gothic Quarter walking tour continued to the medieval Plaça del Rei (King's Square) and the 13th-century Palau Reial Major (Grand Royal Palace).

The Catalan monarchy held its court here for 500 years. We viewed the orange tree-filled courtyard where the Spanish Inquisition trials took place after King Ferdinand II of Aragon and Queen Isabella I of Castile launched the inquisitions in 1478.

Ferdinand and Isabella supported Christopher Columbus and his journey to the New World. The Crown of Aragon archives has a copy of their contract with the explorer.

Good luck charm

The late-Gothic Archdeacon's House (Casa de l'Ardiaca), located in front of the Barcelona Cathedral, houses the archives of the Crown of Aragon. Our guide showed us the unique stone mailbox, embedded in the wall next to the entrance.

He explained that the mailbox was an artistic commentary about the justice system. "The swallows imply that justice was free, like flying birds. The turtle indicates that justice is slow. Even today, it can take more than two years to get a trial here in Barcelona," he said.

Barcelona residents and visitors believe that the turtle is also a good-luck charm. We patted its shell, as countless others have done before us, to ensure years of good luck.

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TRAVEL INFORMATION

Tourist Office of Spain

Guided Gothic Quarter Walking Tours

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