TALL SHIP THROUGH THE CARIBBEAN

"Set sails!" orders the captain. "All hands on deck!" shouts the chief-mate. Within minutes, the crew is pulling ropes and manning winches. The chief-mate then calls out: "All passengers on sheets!"

A queue materializes instantly. He assigns us to various sails and shouts: "Upper t'gallant sheets! Heave away! Standby to tack! Take them away now!"

Star Clipper in full sail.

Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll

Hoisting the sails

Helping the crew hoist the sails is only one of the pleasures of sailing on a tall ship, a yacht-like experience quite unlike cruising on a traditional ship.

It's a great view from the widow-net, the huge rope hammock stretched around the bowsprit at the front of the ship. Above us, 16 white sails billow from four masts like bulging pillows, restrained by 18 kilometers of rigging. Our eyes are drawn to the massive golden bird profiling the sleek 110-metre hull, as it clears a foaming pathway across the sapphire sea.

It could be 1850, the zenith of the romantic era of the clipper ships, which was spurred on by the California Gold Rush, then forced to an abrupt halt by the opening of the Suez Canal in 1869.

Not a traditional cruise

In reality, it's the 21st century, and we're aboard the Star Clipper, a tall ship. (Until its maiden voyage in the early 1990s, there had been no scheduled trans-Atlantic passenger service on a commercial sailing vessel for over 100 years.)

In spite of its romance, a tall ship cruise is not for everyone. If you expect Vegas-style shows, casinos, spas, beauty shops, fitness centers and room service, then consider a traditional cruise liner.

Not that there aren't modern amenities. Our cabin, while compact, is very comfortable, with lots of cupboard space, a closed-circuit TV, a wall-safe, a satellite telephone, air-conditioning, and a marble bathroom with shower (although it's an "after you, dear," size).

Ravenous appetites

Early on the first morning, we wake-up and note that the ship is tilted. Hearing water brushing the hull, we waste no time getting dressed and up on the deck. Dozens of passengers are already up, coffee cups and cameras in hand. The fresh air makes us ravenous and although we've nibbled on fresh fruit and pastries from the continental breakfast, we indulge in the buffet as well.

Since the dining room is large enough to accommodate all 170 passengers, there's only one seating, and it's completely open, allowing us to sit with whomever we please. It's a wonderful opportunity to meet our traveling companions, who turn out to be 1/3 European, 1/3 American and 1/3 Canadian. The vast majority, like us, are couples in the 40 to 65 age-bracket.

Sipping pina coladas

The laid-back atmosphere leads to easy conversation and camaraderie, whether it's lounging on deck chairs around one of the pools or relaxing on bar stools, sipping piña-coladas. Other than the mandatory life-jacket drill, nothing is regimented.

Each morning, during captain's story-time, we sit in a circle on the deck, while the captain describes our port-of-call and introduces the staff who, in turn, outline the day's sports activities, shore excursions and entertainment.

Banana boats and bathtub-warm water

Anchored off Anguilla on the first day, we have the choice of a tender-ride to the beach for sunfish-sailing, windsurfing and banana-boat riding, or an excursion to Sandy Island for snorkeling.

We opt for the latter, and find ourselves on an idyllic patch of talcum-powder sand, complete with nine tall palms and a rickety wooden bar. After a 10-minute stroll around the islet, we languish in the bathtub-warm water, exploring the reef.

Win a fortune

“Thoroughbred Crab Racing In The Tropical Bar After Dinner,” reads the notice board, on our return. Bring Your $1 Bets And Win A Fortune. (The game was first enjoyed by pirates who had plenty of gold doubloons, but no horses.)

The library is turned into a bookie's office; a circle is chalked on the deck; each crab is given a name, and a preliminary race establishes the odds. In spite of our cheers, however, our crab, Creepy Crawler, comes in second, and the passengers who bet on Happy Days, collect their "fortune" of $12 each.

Island wedding

The following morning, after breakfast, everyone gathers on deck as we approach St. Thomas, intent on shopping and sightseeing. To our surprise, we turn out to be the object of everyone's attention, as passengers on all the other ships in the harbor, run out to take pictures of our magnificent square-rigged clipper.

It's a busy day. Some passengers pull out credit cards for a spree of bargain-hunting, one couple heads to a chapel to get married, and several of us drive into the hills for panoramic views of verdant islands and turquoise bays. We stop at Coral World, to observe spiny lobsters, porcupine fish, sponges and shark-feeding, then return to the ship for dinner.

Evening meals are à la carte, with a choice of two entrées each night, ranging from roast lamb and steak to Gulf shrimp and lobster. There's also a midnight snack of fruit and cheese. (Don't expect the lavish buffets of large cruise liners.)

Fire coral and fluorescent fish

Man and woman snorkle.

Photo © Barb & Ron Kroll

Nonetheless, after a few hearty meals, we decide it's a good idea to join the 8 a.m. fitness classes. (Fortunately, they turn out to be gentle stretching exercises, rather than high-powered aerobics.) The daily water sports program also helps burn calories - painlessly, considering the allure of places like Norman Island.

Our Zodiac pilot brings us out and provides us with frozen lima beans to feed the fish. Clouds of yellow and black striped-sergeant majors and arm-long yellowtail snappers greedily gobble everything we offer.

We then swim to the caves, where treasure was reputedly once hidden. Today, their gems are emerald green coral, brilliant orange fire coral and chains of tiny fluorescent blue fish.

Preachers and pirates

That evening, everyone gathers for a "P" party. Crepe paper, crayons, popsicle sticks and other craft supplies are left in the library for us to construct costumes of anything beginning with the letter "P".

The creativity of our fellow passengers amazes us, as they appear dressed as preachers, pirates, postcards and pregnant. Us? We come as press and photographer, of course.

Drinking painkillers

An overnight sail brings us to Tortola, where we take a safari bus to Sage Mountain National Park. After hiking through the rainforest, examining tree ferns and purple orchids, we visit Pusser's Pub in Road Town.

Half the passengers are here, imbibing Pusser's Painkillers which come in three strengths, based on the rum content. (The 18-ounce libations probably accounted for the good number of people on the deck that night, dancing to the steel band brought on board for the evening.)

Building-size boulders

The following morning, we sail to lush Virgin Gorda, and the Baths, a beautiful beach strewn with house-size boulders, and a trail over whale-backed rocks, into grottoes with tiny secluded pools.

Back on board, the first-mate conducts a pre-Happy Hour navigation lesson. Finally, the names and purposes of all those jibs and mizzens make sense!

The captain invites us into the bridge and explains how he uses his charts and instruments. Although we're clipping along at about 17 knots, the ship is only slightly tilted. "We try to hold any heeling over to less than 12°, to keep the dishes on the dining room tables," he explains.

Singing sea shanties

Star Clipper at sunset.

After dinner, some passengers sing sea shanties by the white baby grand, in the piano bar, while we relax over a game of backgammon in the richly-paneled library.

In our final port-of-call, St. Bart's, we rent a Mini-Moke for a day of exploring the spectacular beaches and scenery. By dusk, we reach the lighthouse, overlooking the harbor, just in time to see the sun sinking behind the Star Clipper, silhouetting the ship against the gilded sea.

Capturing the trade winds

After the captain's dinner, we climb to the upper deck for a stroll. It's a dark, moonless night, but the stars are so bright, they make the inky black sea sparkle with diamonds. Above us, three acres (36,000 square feet) of sails reflect the starlight, as they capture the trade winds.

It's an indelibly romantic memory that, even today, transports us back more than a century to when the early mariners circled the globe in their clipper ships.

TRAVEL INFORMATION

Star Clippers: www.starclippers.com